It is done in silk floss, couched over a silk-wool core on the shetland wool gown. The pattern is based on illuminations dating between about 1350 and 1409; it shows up all over both men and women's garments. However, it is hard to say to what extent this pattern is merely artistic shorthand for "...and there was embroidery on it," or whether the circles and lines pattern was actually that common. Stripes and roundels are a common motif in medieval woven fabrics and in other extant scraps of embroidery, but there are often other elements around or within them. That said, as this is a wool gown rather than silk, it is entirely plausible that less complex motifs would have been stitched onto it. Couched embroidery has been found from this period and slightly earlier, so it's a plausible stitch. The dress itself is entirely hand-sewn (the whole outfit is) and is constructed geometrically.
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| See, this was before the embroidery was done... |
The thing on my belt (well, the blue and gold thing) is my new belt purse! Another thing I'd been procrastinating on. Had to make a good impression on the locals - couldn't show up in half-finished garb, could I? =P It's made of a wool and silk pavy cloth that I wove on my floor loom last year (wish I still had access to a floor loom! Alas...), finished with fingerlooped silk cords and wool tassels with woven silk decoration.
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| The cloth, close-up |
And one more photo of the dress, standing on Buckden's entrance causeway:
Oh my gosh, that's jaw-dropping. I'm inspired but can only hope to someday be able to make a cotehardie like that!
ReplyDeleteThanks very much! I've been wearing it for years with only half the embroidery done, so if you start now you'll get there. =)
DeleteLovely! I was wondering what pattern you used for your cut work shoes?? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Lindsey! I made the pattern based on my own feet. The easiest way to do this is honestly just to duct-tape your feet (over cling wrap!), draw the seam line around the sole and on the instep, and cut the pieces out. "Smash" them flat as best you can and trace them onto paper. Do a mock-up before you cut your leather to make sure that the shapes are right, and be prepared that you may want to add a couple of millimetres around the edge of the top piece to give your toes some room. =) Good luck!
DeleteThanks!!
ReplyDeleteLovely! My goal is to weave the cloth & hand stitch everything, together. I hope to be able to do so by next year.
ReplyDeleteMy current project is a kirtle in blue, w a cote in red. My project is currently pinning away in a bag, waiting for the muse to strike, again.
Yours is awesome & inspiring. Thank you so much for sharing it!
Love your illustrator's 'here be dragons' shorthand comment! Great dress :)
ReplyDeleteHi, I'm Zaira from Argentina, I want to know what fabric to use for making it. here the days are hot, if you recommend a fabric for the heat. thanks greetings
ReplyDeleteHey! This is a fulled Shetland wool twill, so it's quite thick and made for cold weather. Here I am representing a gentlewoman - a rich person - so the ideal fabrics are wool or silk. You could use a thinner wool (e.g., tropical-weight wool) or a very light-weight silk, or you could make clothing for someone who would have worked in the fields or done other kinds of labour, rather than a noblewoman, and make a linen shift and kirtle. Linen is ideal for hot weather! I hope this helps!
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